The nights of May in Seville are wonderfully warm and pleasant and we slept like angels. And that was fortunate, as on the second day of our trip to Seville, my husband and I had lots of sightseeing to do. We started with the much celebrated Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea, located only minutes away from our hotel.
By the time we arrived, there was already a sea of people inside the cathedral and to be honest, the atmosphere was far from the original purpose of the place. The cathedral is huge, and pretty dark and with all the tourists swarming around, it is noisy! No guards hushing the crowds like in the Sistine Chapel, no guards at all actually, and no matter how much I disliked them then, I missed them now.
This was our second time visiting Seville's Cathedral and despite the crowds, we still think it is worthy to be visited for mainly 3 reasons.
The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea is the largest cathedral in the world
It is difficult to grasp it all in one glance, either from outside or from the inside. The choir placed in the right in the middle makes it impossible to appreciate how huge this place really is. I only now it took us 2 hours to visit it all (Giralda Tower included. And though we might not be the fittest persons in the world, I can assure you that's not where the big chunk of time was spent).
Climbing the Giralda Tower all the way up is well worth it
The bell tower is one of the few elements left from the old mosque for which was built as a minaret and back in the good old days they used to climb it on a horse back. It has 105 meters and no stairs. What a relief! Probably this is the main reason this is the only tower that I climbed twice in my life. There is a special feeling about it and knowing that at every turn there will be another window with another stunning view and a different perspective on the city below us was pretty motivational and kept us going all the way up.
However, it was intriguing to realize how my memory played tricks on my and instead of the wide, golden and very well lit tower I remembered from a few years ago, this time Giralda was pretty narrow and dark. Maybe some places are meant to be seen only once, or maybe the sun was in a different position on the sky, I don't know. I just hope that for the older lady with crutches who was just starting her climb as we were coming down, the sun was in the right position and rewarded her boldness.
The tomb of Christopher Columbus is here
And it looks incredible! And it has a long and not so predictable story behind it, unless you've been following it in the media lately. Basically, long story short, Columbus seemed to have traveled more after his death than he did during his lifetime. He died in Spain, but his earthly remains were transferred to the Dominican Republic a few decades later, then to Cuba and when this second colony became independent too, Columbus' remains were transferred to the Cathedral of Seville where they still are today, or so the Spanish authorities and the DNA studies claim, while the Dominicans beg to differ.
The catafalque where Columbus is placed in Seville is very beautiful and elaborate with four men carrying the coffin, representing the kings of the four Spanish Kingdoms back in the day and their robes are sculpted with the symbols of each kingdom. One of them is having his spear stabbed in a 'granada', the Spanish name for pomegranate, symbol of the city of Granada, the last Moorish fortress still sanding on the peninsula.
One more beautiful element this cathedral has is the orange tree garden, quite an unusual idea I would dare to say. While in Valencia the orange trees were still in bloom a few days before we left for Seville, there were no blossoms in the Andalusian city at this time of the year anymore. It seems like the climate difference between the two cities is quite big after all, though it might not seem so when you look it on the map. We actually left Valencia with 27ºC, just to arrive in Seville with temperatures over 40ºC.
We bumped into the cathedral quite a few more times during the next few days and we were left with the feeling that in Seville, all streets lead to it. It is the meeting point of tourists and locals alike however, and it is impossible to avoid. And why would anyone want to do so after all? It is a beautiful piece of Gothic architecture and the horse pulled carriages around it are a pretty charming and romantic sight too.
Next we headed to one of my favorite places in Seville... But then, I have sooo many favorite places in Seville ;)
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