Travel
Baja - Mexico
Rather like a master juggler, Baja California Sur hooks and entrances with constant and always-visible props— an orange desert, indigo waters and multihued animal life that are emblematic of this state. With its long list of top resorts, creature comforts and natural attractions, this is undoubtedly one of Mexico’s most exciting regions.
LA PAZ
Rather friendly and easygoing for a state capital, La Paz holds on to the breezy Baja feel more casually than its southern neighbors. Its boardwalk looks out onto blue-green waters and a pretty beach that offers quick access to shops and restaurants. Many adventure outfitters make La Paz a stopping point, as the bountiful Sea of Cortez and surrounding desert landscape allow for a fair share of adventure and outdoor options. Indeed, La Paz is the main departure point for Isla Espiritu Santo, where visitors can kayak and snorkel amid vibrant marine life. Fishing is also popular, with marlin and roosterfish topping the list. On land, birdwatchers can indulge in spotting everything from hummingbirds to roadrunners. South of the city is the Sierra de la Laguna, a biosphere reserve that is ideal for discovering wildlife. As Los Cabos gets busier, people seeking a less-frantic alternative with waterfront indulgences and the conveniences of city living are making La Paz a favorite spot for a second home or retirement retreat. Those who just stop by for a visit have plenty of options, however, including Hotel La Concha Beach Resort, a family-friendly alternative with oceanview rooms that is just a 10-minute drive from downtown La Paz.This and most other hotels here are plenty affordable, making La Paz a reasonable alternative for a Mexican vacation that does not break the bank.
Good Time to Go: From December through March, both the weather and the whales are on your side. Mostly gray whales swim from the Arctic to give birth to their calves in warmer waters, and are easily spotted from a number of vantage points throughout Baja Sur. One of the best locations from which to hop on a panga and get close to the whales is Magdalena Bay, not too far from La Paz.
TODOS SANTOS
Driving from La Paz to Los Cabos, there’s a town that is no longer a secret of those following the road less traveled, but still holds much magic for all who visit. Todos Santos is brimming with art galleries, the energy of ex-pats from different parts of the world and an honorable designation as one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos or Magical Towns (to date, the only one in Baja). The town, situated along the Tropic of Cancer, also has ruins of sugar mills dating back to the 19th century and the Mission of our Lady of La Paz, which was founded in 1723. Todos Santos seems quiet upon first impression but has much going on, for which small hotels keep popping up on a regular basis. One of these, Posada La Poza, is located right on the beach and features just seven suites, each with a pair of binoculars so guests can spot local wildlife.
Good Time to Go: The end of winter sees an annual art festival with live music, dance and theater performances, as well as fi lm screenings and other activities.
LOS CABOS
Whether it’s families, golfers, the glitterati or a friends’ getaway, regardless of age group, San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas deliver a plateful of stylish resorts and amenities galore. Even San Jose del Cabo, once the quieter of the two, has grown into a sophisticated town with properties such as the Grand Mayan Los Cabos Wyndham Alliance Resort, enticing visitors with great deals and Baja’s laid-back charm. While Cabo San Lucas may be more fl ashy, properties in both towns (and the Tourist Corridor that joins them) lean mostly toward the posh and sparkly, with world-class spas left and right, dining options spanning the globe and miles upon miles of (sometimes treacherous) coastline. Even doing business here is a fun affair, with many hotels mixing work-related events with a vast menu of outdoor activities. Visitors keep loving Los Cabos, and brands keep coming in to accommodate them—Ritz-Carlton and Montage Hotels & Resorts are just two of the big names developing resorts right now. Golf and fishing are the sports of choice in Los Cabos. Championship greens here tout designs by golf greats, including Tom Fazio and Tom Weiskopf. In the Puerto Los Cabos community near San Jose—which includes a marina—an 18-hole course features nine holes designed by Jack Nicklaus and nine by Greg Norman. The recently launched Quivira Los Cabos master-planned residential resort community is set to have two Nicklaus courses by 2010. Cabo San Lucas, known as the “Marlin Capital of the World,” has earned its nickname for its abundance of striped, black, white, and blue marlin—but don’t be surprised if you end up with a giant tuna, wahoo or sailfish on the line. There are fishing tournaments throughout the year as well as many outfitters offering packages for anglers. Many restaurants will clean up and cook your very own catch so you can enjoy it after a day at sea. Speaking of dining, Los Cabos’ knack for overindulgence extends to its culinary delights. The area is filled with award-winning restaurants offering everything from down-home Mexican options to French cuisine to the most eclectic of sushi. Las Ventanas al Paraiso, A Rosewood Resort—the only AAA five-diamond property in the area—features not just a Tequila & Ceviche Bar but also “Cocina del Fuego” at its Sea Grill, where everything is cooked on specially designed wood-burning grills or brick-and-clay ovens. Regardless of their dish or restaurant of choice, travelers can more often than not choose a Mexican Merlot, Chenin Blanc or an exciting blend to accompany their meal; around 90 percent
of the country’s wine comes from a few hundred miles’ north of Los Cabos, in the state of Baja California. Sixty miles north of Los Cabos is Cabo Pulmo, a marine park teeming with wildlife that is popular among kayakers, snorkelers and divers. There are coral reefs and rock formations surrounded by crystalline waters where visitors can enjoy hundreds of animal species, including sea turtles, sea lions, geckos, and mule deer. As a national marine park, the area is protected and travelers are asked to be extra careful when visiting.
Good Time to Go: It rarely rains in Los Cabos, so even hurricane season is a safe bet here. Anglers will not want to miss the annual Cabos Billfish Tournament, taking place Oct. 13-17.
LORETO
The town of Loreto was the fi rst permanent Spanish settlement in the Californias, founded by Jesuits in 1697 and flanked by the Mission of Our Lady of Loreto. This is where the Royal Road or El Camino Real begins, the corridor that traces the locations of the Spanish missions. Named Loreto for the town in Italy of the same name, this hamlet is still blessedly rustic and tourist-free, with laurel trees throughout and fantastic seafood everywhere you go. In the back of the mission there is a tiny chapel holding a statue of the Virgin Mary, said to be more than 300 years old. Legend has it that many years ago, the statue “lent” her arms to a small group of men who had set off to fish and lost their oars while at sea. The fishermen were able to row back to shore. There are five islands that form part of the Loreto Bay National Marine Park: Monserrat, Carmen, Coronado, Danzante, and Santa Catalina. The marine life in the area is said to be some of the most diverse in the world, and in fact, plays a starring role in John Steinbeck’s “The Log from the Sea of Cortez.” Visitors will marvel at the frolicking sea lions at some of the islands, the breaching whales during season, the flurries of color underwater as schools of fish swim by. Kayakers can enjoy a day of sport around Punta Nopolo. Fishing aficionados have plenty to do here as well, with yellow-tail tune and mahimahi playing center stage. The newest hotel in town is La Mision, which sits right across the street from Loreto’s boardwalk and features gourmet dining and deliciously comfy guestrooms. Less than half an hour away from town, travelers will easily spot geometric rupestrian art about 12,000 years old in the Cuevas Pintas Ar Archaeological Zone. Active vacationers can also plan a hiking trip along the Giganta Mountain Range and in the area around Cuevas Pintas, where small oases of fresh water hide among multihued rock formations. There they’ll find ancient fig trees and plenty of reptile species to keep them alert and ready to take some amazing photos.
Good Time to Go: Each year, in early September, Loreto celebrates the Virgin of Loreto and its mission with the Day of the Virgin, featuring carnival rides, music and dancing.
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