Travel
Bonaire
Sitting in the middle of the Dutch “ABC” chain just north of Venezuela, Bonaire is a little island with a big reputation, particularly with divers who know it as one of the top scuba spots on the globe.
First things first: Bonaire is, primarily, a diving destination. Or, more accurately, a diver’s dream destination. It’s located smack in the middle of the most accessible and diverse ecosystem in the Caribbean Sea so visitors here have the chance to witness more undersea plants, animals and natural phenomena than anywhere else in the region. In part, Bonaire lucked out when it comes to its location, but it’s the island’s dedication to preserving its natural assets that sets it apart in the diving world. The Bonaire Marine Park is a protected area that rings the island, encompassing the entire coastline and offshore reefs of the mainland and its smaller sister island, Klein Bonaire. Divers who are eager to explore the natural wonderland beneath the waves must first undergo a short orientation alerting them to the rules of conduct within the grounds of the Bonaire Marine Park, and strict penalties apply to anyone acting in a way that endangers the health of the reefs. Once divers are in the water and swimming among the reefs, however, it’s easy to see what all the fuss is about. Visibility averages out to 100 ft. year-round, with water temperatures ranging from a comfortable 78 degrees to a balmy 82. And amid these pristine conditions, divers encounter every type of aquatic tropical feature you can think of: brain coral, schools of rainbow-colored fish, sponges, groupers, moray eels. The hardest part about diving in Bonaire isn’t the diving itself—it’s figuring out where to start from the island’s list of more than 50 dive sites. Much like its neighbor Aruba, Bonaire’s seas offer just as many thrills above the waves as below them. Windsurfing is huge here, especially in Lac Bay and its surrounding areas on the east coast of the island, thanks to its combination of shallow waters and constant, forceful winds. Because it’s part of the Bonaire Marine Park, Lac Bay’s shores are kept in pristine condition, making the area all the more attractive to windsurfers from beginners to pros. The best conditions run from December to August every year, but you can also catch some truly skilled athletes showing off their moves in October at competitions that coincide with the island’s Regatta Week.
Though Bonaire’s best known for its offshore sights, there’s plenty to do and explore on land here as well. Washington Slagbaai National Park is the land-based counterpart to the Bonaire Marine Park, protecting the island’s tropical ecosystem and providing a pristine environment for ecotourists to explore. Birdwatchers in particular won’t want to miss sites like Bronswinkel Well, something of an enormous birdbath serving over 200 species of birds, including parakeets, pigeons, and lesser-known species like bananaquit. Because it’s located at the base of Mount Brandaris—Bonaire’s highest peak—birdwatchers can combine their sightseeing with a hiking trek (hiking gear and backpack are highly recommended). For more bird sightings, head to Salina Mathijs, a salt fl at that’s turned into a habitat for flamingoes who visit during the rainy season.
Most people visit Bonaire for its natural attractions, but the island is also home to a Dutch-tinged island culture that’s worth checking out. In the capital of Kralendijk, visitors can see examples of Dutch colonial architecture in buildings like the Customs House and the Old Fort. For a more modern cultural experience, stop by the town market near the pier, or even better, visit during the island’s colorful and lively Carnival celebrations, held each year in February or March. North of Kralendijk, the town of Rincon is the island’s oldest village, a former settlement for slaves who worked in the salt flats. Today, villagers celebrate their heritage with festivals like Dia di Rincon, held in April, or at smaller celebrations coinciding with local markets held intermittently throughout the year.
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