Train Misadventures In Italy
Travel

Train Misadventures In Italy


Next day we visited Turin, the capital of Piedmont, about 130km from Milan. We took the train from the Central Station (the ticket costs about 9euros one way per person and it takes 2 hours to get to the destination). However, we made it in 3. I don't like a bumpy start, I don't like obstacles in my way and I don't like when things don't go by the plan. It makes me nervous and sad and it ruins my day. I'm a bit of a control freak, but I can't help it.  

Inside Milan's Central Station

Milan Central Station is a maze. King Victor Emmanuel III of Italy laid the cornerstone of the new station in 1906 but due to the Italian economic crisis during World War I, construction proceeded very slowly, and the project, rather simple at the beginning, kept changing and became more and more complex and majestic. This happened especially when Benito Mussolini became Prime Minister, and wanted the station to represent the power of the fascist regime. And so it is today, a mirror of the twisted fascist mind. Huge, the Milan Central Station is one of the biggest in Europe, far from user friendly due to the moving of the ticket office at the ground floor, between the way to many shops for a train station and highly impractical due to all those lovely old "Biglietteria" signs highly misleading as today we can find staircases and cafeterias behind them and no sign of ticket office. I guess once one gets used with the architecture of the station everything comes to terms, but the traveler that comes here for the first time can easily get lost and confused with the many exits and old signs

About 2 minutes after departing Milan, the ticket inspector came. We showed him the tickets we just bought from the ticket office in the train  station but that was far from satisfactory to him. He said we didn't validate the tickets before getting on the train and we shall pay a 50euro fine each. That came as a shock. We convinced him we didn't know about any of these, because in Spain you buy the ticket and that's it, you don't have to validate it. We spoke Spanish all the time and pretended we knew no English as he showed us the back of the ticket where it stated in plain English that you have to validate the ticket. But we were in a hurry and it was still very early in the morning and we were still sleepy and the thought never crossed our minds that we should read the "bla-bla" on the ticket as we explicitly asked for a ticket for that particular train and in no other country before we had to do anything extra with the tickets after buying them. I think we played well our part because in the end  he said that we shall pay only 50euro or get off the train in Rho, the next stop. Of course getting off the train sounded like the smartest option. So we did and he gave us the tickets back. That was a weird negotiation. Aparently he could bend the rules at his wish. Then wasn't he able to tear the ticket in two or sign it or anything to make sure we never use it again and let us be and continue our journey? 

In Rho we asked the station's personal about the next train to Turin and the guy said we had two options - validate the ticket, take the train to Navara, and from there another one to Turin or take a train till Rho Fiera and take the next Milan-Turin direct train from there. He also said we should get on the train to Rho Fiera without a ticket because that was only about 2 minutes away and no ticket inspector is usually on the train. That was highly misleading and we didn't do it, especially after our previous experience. We stuck with the first option, Rho - Navara, Navara - Turin, and so we made it to Turin one hour later than supposed but without paying anything extra as we could validate our tickets bought in Milan in Rho. 

Tip: In Italy, tickets not including seat reservation must always be validated. Lack of validation can result in fines. You can validate your ticket at the yellow machines on the platforms. The date and time of the validation will be printed on your ticket. From that time your ticket will have a validity of a few hours depending on the length of your trajectory. Also, when you buy such a ticket in Italy it usually can be validated in the next 2 months from the date of its purchase.

The Italian trains are pretty far from the ones I described in my article about the European Rail Passes. It was my first time traveling by train in Italy and I was surprised to find them dirty, decorated with graffiti and untidy. It was also the first time I was grateful for traveling at second class. The first class seats were dirtier than the second class ones and the air con didn't work. After all, the T-shirt from Lake Como was right.

Milan Central Station from Duca d'Aosta Square




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