In the Footsteps of the Surrealists: Drinks with Magritte at Fleur en Papier Doré
Travel

In the Footsteps of the Surrealists: Drinks with Magritte at Fleur en Papier Doré


You cannot visit Brussels without paying a visit to the little Manneken Pis, see an Art Nouveau building, stroll through Grand Place, eat chocolate or learn about Magritte. And the fans of surrealism, as well as the lovers of hearty food, good beer and great atmosphere, cannot miss a stop at La Fleur en Papier Doré Pub.




The pub is located in Rue Alexiens 55, not far away from the city center. It used to be the meeting place of René Magritte and the surrealist circle from Brussels back in the day.

La Fleur en Papier Doré is an amazing place that still looks the same way it did during Magritte's time.


Nested among beer drinking locals, it feels like Magritte is about to walk through the door any minute. The pub preserves its full character, with old posters, faded pictures and awards, covering almost every inch of the wall. There are citations painted above the doors and stained glass windows and wood, lots of wood. 

The pub was revived in recent year by a group of enthusiasts. Everything that could be kept is still here. The old wallpaper still decorates the walls, impregnated and darkened by generations of smokers. No smoking is allowed nowadays, of course, and I can easily imagine a surprised Magritte at this kind of news.


There's also a modern part in the back, and an interior, small garden and a huge black and white picture of Magritte and his buddies back in the day. But for us, the most interesting part remains the old chambers by the entrance.

The atmosphere is charming, a Belgian version of old man's pub, very charismatic and intimate. The selection of beer is very creative. I'm not a big beer drinker, but I had to try the cherry beer. A light, aromatic, pretty sweet and red version of the liquid gold. A very lady like drink, delicate and novel.

Appetizers


Since we are visiting at dinner time, we figure we should have something to eat too. We order the onion soup, a 'must try', especially on a rainy night like the one we visited. The soup is hot, served with grated cheese and croutons, in a large bowl.

Onion soup

We like the onion soup so much, that we decide to have a full dinner here at the pub. The atmosphere is relaxing and the small place is only half-full. We spot a few tourists sticking their heads through the open door, just to suddenly disappear. Fleur en Papier Doré has made it to various guide books, and it surely picked the curiosity of many. But in spite of its fame, it preserved its yesteryear atmosphere and decently low prices. After all, this was the whole point of the pub's revival, to be a testimony of the past and a bridge to the present. The ambiance can be intimidatingly homey, but I wouldn't have it any other way.

Potatoes and cauliflowers puree with bacon and sausage

Mushroom pie with Belgian fries

We order the mushroom pie with Belgian fries (yes, Belgian, not French!) and the potatoes and cauliflowers puree with bacon and sausage. The rations are very generous, and we struggle with them a bit, but they are delicious and made after old local recipes. The food is homemade and satiating. 

Fleur en Papier Doré is a place full of memories, and for all the history that was created between this walls, and all the ideas that were born here, it is well worth a visit. And more than just picking inside, sitting at one of the old wood tables, having a beer and maybe even grabbing something to eat. 





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